“Waves are not measured in feet and inches. They are measured in increments of fear.”
– Buzzy Trent
While spending many days and hours photographing the surf culture in Southern California, I couldn’t help but get curious about the process of surf shaping. As someone with no connections in that industry, I just started reaching out to everyone I could Google and made a list of shapers who I’d want to photograph.
In 8 month, I went from being a total stranger in this world to capturing over 35 boards being shaped by all the top shapers from Ventura to Oceanside. At the Boardroom show that year I had a spread with my photo and felt totally embraced by an incredibly friendly shaper and surf industry community.