“The joy of surfing is so many things combined, from the physical exertion of it to the challenge of it, to the mental side of the sport.”
When you live in Los Angeles, every morning you wake up with the idea that today you can do anything you want – go to the beach, go to the mountains, work on your business, be an artist. Or all of it at the same time.
Surfing, to me, is one of the best ways to stay grounded, present, with a perspective that life is bigger than us humans on this planet where we’re a small part.
Surfing, to me, is also about starting your day right, finishing your day right, being connected with the forces of nature, always in the summer mode.
I have the privilege to live about a mile from the beach, always able to meet the sunrise on the coast of the Pacific Ocean. I started this series in 2013 and I think it’s one of the themes I’ll keep capturing for years to come.